We were persuaded to eat at O Fumeiro by a young enthusiastic man handing out leaflets on the main Avenida de Liberdade. We were apprehensive and for awhile the only customers, but the warm welcome, the excellent food and wine won us over. At the waiters recommendation we tried a catalpas a of fish and it was absolutely melt in the mouth delicious. We were able to try the wine before we committed to it and were only charged for what we drank. An excellent venue for those who would like to try traditional Portuguese food.

Having just experienced poor service at the swish rooftop terrace at the Tivoli Hotel, we were jaundiced about finding anywhere worth eating in the vicininty. We intended to eat at As Velhas but were beckoned to look at O Fumeiro by one of their waiters doign a fine job directing people up this street. He was (no toher word for it) a dwarf . I almost missed seeing him to be honest but my friend chatted to him and he was lovely - enthusiatic and charmning. We peeked at As Velhas first and plumped for this one instead. The aged interior with blue wall tiles (almost dutch style) and shelves lined with bottles and barrels, together with close packed tables gave it a jumbled yet friendly look. As mentioned previsouly, Hare was not available (apparently they are difficult to catch) but the rabbit was by all accounts fantastic. I had steak tournedos in a delcious mushroom, coriander and creamy sauce. Fab. I almost licked my plate. Swordfish was also served to another friend who declared it "tasty" . It's not filleted though so don't order it if you don't line dealing with bones. The waiter was friendly and although his Englsih was limited, it's way better than my Portuguese! 2 bottles of delicious Vinho Verde, bottled water, 2 puds and 4 mains came to 102 euros without service. Very reasonable prices and we all liked the slightly kooky atmosphere and surroundings.

Excelente comida. Encontramos lá uma Chef de Cozinha, Sra. Nilda que nos atendeu muito gentilmente e sua simpatia foi incrível. Voltaria várias vezes lá. Nota 10